The very idea of spending our 46th wedding anniversary in Niger, Africa was probably the furthest thought from our minds when Dave and I got married in December, 1964. In fact, just getting through the ice and snow which fell on our wedding day, then driving to Gatlinburg for our honeymoon was a major challenge. I doubt that we even knew there WAS a Niger, West Africa. But……46 years later, here we are, spending our wedding anniversary with 40 other Peace Corps trainees, most of whom are in their 20’s, and we are loving it. True, we think of previous anniversary celebrations with family and friends or those we privately shared in special places. But this year, we are in Niger and our new “family” helped us to celebrate an event they only heard about and for the most part, have no way of understanding the significance of those 46 years we have shared.
How did we celebrate an anniversary in a foreign land where the life expectancy is 47 and a man may have 4 wives? How would he keep up with all of his anniversaries and make them special? How would multiple wives feel as their co-wife was the special one for the day? Dave and I did not have to worry about that! We just wanted to share the time with our newly made friends and Peace Corps colleagues. With the help of the Training Director at our site, we ordered a cake big enough to serve all trainees, Peace Corps staff and site employees. It was a HUGE cake, beautifully iced, banana flavored and COLD. Our cake was made by a restaurant in the Niger capital city where Peace Corps folks gravitate due to its excellent food, sodas, ice cream, pizza and beautiful desserts. It is also air conditioned and offers free Wi-fi. Such luxuries are all of these items, and our cake was too. Delivered especially at a time when refrigeration was available at our site, the party began when the amazing cake appeared. Chocolate icing, personal inscriptions, multiple layers of cake—what better way to celebrate. And we did party!! And so did our Niger Country Director and other staff who attended.
We gave ourselves a beautiful hand-made leather photo frame made by a local African ethnic group, the Taureg’s and the other older married couple presented us with a lovely round leather jewelry box made by the same African people. Memories are made of this…………………….and we danced to the voices of 20 year olds who were curious about whether we could actually dance! We’re old, you know!! But yes, we can dance! That impromptu performance has led to another trainee with teaching experience being asked to teach swing dance at a future training session.
Thinking this was THE celebration, we ended that day feeling great. Then the next day, our fellow trainees presented a program in our honor, spoofing our training objectives and inserting information about us into a group game( thanks to several inquisitive young people who found out lots of details about our life, family, backgrounds, etc)...all in fun and celebration of our 46th. Topping off this day was a card signed by all of our new friends, wishing us well and even wishing us “46 more “---I doubt that will happen!
Never give up on the youth of today nor should we think they are not approachable on an adult level. They are awesome and made us feel very special, even though we are old enough to be many of their grandparents. Cheers! to the Peace Corps Niger October 2010 trainees. They are the best.
Judy and Dave
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Saturday, December 11, 2010
SURVIVAL
We experienced the Stone Age again today. During a refreshingly cool morning walk through the African bush, we came upon a lake we'd visited earlier in the week. Today though, the scene was different. It was an exercise in survival for local bush dwellers and also for the fish who lived in the lake. 3 local boys were busy lighting a small fire in the sandy soil beside the lake, manure clods around them. Wet clothes barely clung to their thin, muscular bodies which were glistening with moisture from the lake. Once the fire started, the boys laid a still wiggling cat fish directly onto sticks in the flames. Smoke arose, the boys smiled, the fish died--finally. It's struggle had begun before our arrival when the boys entered the lake and caught the fish with their bare hands as it thrashed around on a primitive hook and line in the water. Still in the lake was an older boy casting a spear into the water from place to place, stalking fish along the lake's bottom where fish were trying to escape the cool morning water above as well as the spear about to take their lives.
The older boy gradually moved through the water and shouted to the others on the bank as he triumphantly raised a fish over his head, spear in the opposite hand. As he made his way back to shore in the thigh high water, the younger boys were already eating their fish, straight from the fire and with their hands. Their search for food this morning sustained them for another day in the bush while the fish gave its life for that purpose.
The older boy returned and proudly showed his catch, after which he returned to the lake and with his strong muscular arms began ripping out water lilies which were growing in the lake. Handful after handful, he tore the large white blooms and glossy leaves from their environment.To us, these African water lilies are treasures greatly appreciated by gardeners. But here these botanical beauties are detrimental to man's survival because they prevent fish from frequenting an area where they grow. People trying to survive by eating fish have no way of being cognizant of a water lily's value and beauty. They only want to eat and survive.
And the only thing which negates this Stone Age experience is the sight of the older boy lighting up a cigarette as he awaits his fish's turn on the fire. Judy and Dave
The older boy gradually moved through the water and shouted to the others on the bank as he triumphantly raised a fish over his head, spear in the opposite hand. As he made his way back to shore in the thigh high water, the younger boys were already eating their fish, straight from the fire and with their hands. Their search for food this morning sustained them for another day in the bush while the fish gave its life for that purpose.
The older boy returned and proudly showed his catch, after which he returned to the lake and with his strong muscular arms began ripping out water lilies which were growing in the lake. Handful after handful, he tore the large white blooms and glossy leaves from their environment.To us, these African water lilies are treasures greatly appreciated by gardeners. But here these botanical beauties are detrimental to man's survival because they prevent fish from frequenting an area where they grow. People trying to survive by eating fish have no way of being cognizant of a water lily's value and beauty. They only want to eat and survive.
And the only thing which negates this Stone Age experience is the sight of the older boy lighting up a cigarette as he awaits his fish's turn on the fire. Judy and Dave
Women's Work is Never Done----in Rural Niger
Often it starts before sunrise. The stars still shine in the sky above. We lie awake and listen. The roosters crow, the donkeys bray, the children have not begun to stir. There is activity at the well behind our hut. Local village women are chatting, laughing, banging their buckets about, as they await the container with precious water which is being pulled from the well by one of them
The sun is just now rising. A woman’s work is never done in rural Niger.
Her day ‘s calendar starts with sweeping the floor of her concession or family’s area. She then cooks breakfast which she might have started when the open fire was burning the night before. Next is pulling water from the well, which means dropping a 10 gallon bideaun into the well and pulling it up sixty to sixty-five feet with 80 pounds of water. The women pour the water into open buckets, lift it to their head and walk to their huts with perfect, erect posture. A baby is frequently on the woman’s back as she takes the water to her family for use in drinking, bathing, cooking and washing clothes by hand. (Based on Nigerien culture, only women pull water from the well so when Dave tried to pull a bucket for us to use, the women became agitated and upset. I tried to pull the water up, but it was so heavy I was almost pulled into the well! Peace Corps now pays a village woman to pull water for all the trainees. It makes me feel guilty, however, we are told that the women need the money and Peace Corps pays well. I hope that is true.)
The women must then pound millet for part of the family’s meal. Rice is too expensive so millet is used in most daily meals. (The only reason Dave and I get rice is because the Peace Corps pays for it.) Fire wood must be gathered for cooking and during this season, many women also work in the millet fields harvesting the end-of-season crop and chopping left-over stalks which are used for fencing. They may also plant winter gardens as well as make crafts or foods for sale at local markets. If lucky, a pause will occur during the hottest part of the day for women and children to rest or fulanzam.
Women’s work is all of the above without mentioning the care of their children. The average number of children per Nigerien woman is 7.5, so again, the woman’s work is never done. Child care is often shared among wives of a husband, but the children’s needs are countless—just as in the U.S. When a Nigerien woman is asked “mante farga”? or “how is your tiredness?” in the Zarma language, she generally answers “farga si no:, or “no tiredness”. What woman in the U.S. would ever reply in this way after such a day?
And the day starts over…………………a woman’s work is never done in rural Niger.
Our hope is to bring some idea or small improvement to the life of even one woman in Niger, to make her life a bit easier. These women are strong physically but are humans just as are. Our first effort was to give work gloves to one woman to use and share as she pulled water from the well or pounded millet. During both of these tasks the women’s hands become heavily callused and sore from the friction of the ropes and pounding sticks. We never saw the gloves used and believe the recipient sold them, needing the money more than protection for her hands. Dave also built 2 mud cook stoves for a large family in hopes of reducing the amount of fire wood needed for cooking. The family used the stoves to prepare food for a wedding so we know they appreciated the effort.
Count your blessings and be thankful for the life you now live. As the Nigeriens say frequently,
Alhamdulilahi or “thanks be to God”. Judy
The sun is just now rising. A woman’s work is never done in rural Niger.
Her day ‘s calendar starts with sweeping the floor of her concession or family’s area. She then cooks breakfast which she might have started when the open fire was burning the night before. Next is pulling water from the well, which means dropping a 10 gallon bideaun into the well and pulling it up sixty to sixty-five feet with 80 pounds of water. The women pour the water into open buckets, lift it to their head and walk to their huts with perfect, erect posture. A baby is frequently on the woman’s back as she takes the water to her family for use in drinking, bathing, cooking and washing clothes by hand. (Based on Nigerien culture, only women pull water from the well so when Dave tried to pull a bucket for us to use, the women became agitated and upset. I tried to pull the water up, but it was so heavy I was almost pulled into the well! Peace Corps now pays a village woman to pull water for all the trainees. It makes me feel guilty, however, we are told that the women need the money and Peace Corps pays well. I hope that is true.)
The women must then pound millet for part of the family’s meal. Rice is too expensive so millet is used in most daily meals. (The only reason Dave and I get rice is because the Peace Corps pays for it.) Fire wood must be gathered for cooking and during this season, many women also work in the millet fields harvesting the end-of-season crop and chopping left-over stalks which are used for fencing. They may also plant winter gardens as well as make crafts or foods for sale at local markets. If lucky, a pause will occur during the hottest part of the day for women and children to rest or fulanzam.
Women’s work is all of the above without mentioning the care of their children. The average number of children per Nigerien woman is 7.5, so again, the woman’s work is never done. Child care is often shared among wives of a husband, but the children’s needs are countless—just as in the U.S. When a Nigerien woman is asked “mante farga”? or “how is your tiredness?” in the Zarma language, she generally answers “farga si no:, or “no tiredness”. What woman in the U.S. would ever reply in this way after such a day?
And the day starts over…………………a woman’s work is never done in rural Niger.
Our hope is to bring some idea or small improvement to the life of even one woman in Niger, to make her life a bit easier. These women are strong physically but are humans just as are. Our first effort was to give work gloves to one woman to use and share as she pulled water from the well or pounded millet. During both of these tasks the women’s hands become heavily callused and sore from the friction of the ropes and pounding sticks. We never saw the gloves used and believe the recipient sold them, needing the money more than protection for her hands. Dave also built 2 mud cook stoves for a large family in hopes of reducing the amount of fire wood needed for cooking. The family used the stoves to prepare food for a wedding so we know they appreciated the effort.
Count your blessings and be thankful for the life you now live. As the Nigeriens say frequently,
Alhamdulilahi or “thanks be to God”. Judy
There's no Christmas in Niger---just a Christmas Wish List
As December progresses and the holiday season approaches, we think of where we were last year at this time. Planning trips to visit family, shopping for gifts, attending parties and musical performances, decorating the house—all of the normal activities associated with Christmas and December.
This year in mid-December, we are in rural Niger nearing the end of our training period for the Peace Corps. If all goes well, our swearing in as official volunteers will be on December 30 with placement in our own village soon to follow. That is all very exciting and even though the training has been rough in many ways, we do not regret having the experience. We value the cultural exchange we have been able to participate in and look forward to actually starting meaningful projects in 2011.
There is, however, the longing for the holiday which is definitely not celebrated here. Our location and time have not allowed us to send Christmas cards or gifts, but we do think of what others might enjoy and then ----what might be on our wish list for Santa.
You might be surprised! The items we wish for are not what you’d expect, but they are small luxuries which would make our life in Niger a bit more comfortable.
Our Wish List
Peanut M & M’s---the only chocolate which does not melt in transit or in the heat of Niger
AAA batteries—we live with no electricity so have headlamps and flashlights which require batteries not readily available here
Hand wipes or hand sanitizer— dust, grease and disease-causing germs are rampant here
Zip Lock bags of all sizes—again, dust is prevalent, so everything we own gets dirty if not enclosed
Protein bars, granola or Luna bars—there is rare protein aside from beans in our diet. We have had meat only on very selected occasions or when eating at the Peace Corps site
Dried fruit or nuts (not candied fruit)—fresh fruit is almost non-existent in the rural bush villages
Toilet tissue or Kleenex—cheaper the better. Don’t even think of what happens when we can’t get it!
Scouring pads, brillo pads, etc— peanut oil in most rice and bean dishes leaves everything greasy .
Most of all we wish for our family and friends to have the best Christmas, holiday season, and New Year ever. We miss you, think of you and wish you health and happiness during this season of love and light. Love, Judy and Dave
If Santa reads this list, he/she should only send small packages due to the cost of mailing both in the US and in Africa. Also, packages are frequently opened and pilfered before they are delivered. Some packages do not ever arrive even though postal charges are high at the local post office in Niger.
This year in mid-December, we are in rural Niger nearing the end of our training period for the Peace Corps. If all goes well, our swearing in as official volunteers will be on December 30 with placement in our own village soon to follow. That is all very exciting and even though the training has been rough in many ways, we do not regret having the experience. We value the cultural exchange we have been able to participate in and look forward to actually starting meaningful projects in 2011.
There is, however, the longing for the holiday which is definitely not celebrated here. Our location and time have not allowed us to send Christmas cards or gifts, but we do think of what others might enjoy and then ----what might be on our wish list for Santa.
You might be surprised! The items we wish for are not what you’d expect, but they are small luxuries which would make our life in Niger a bit more comfortable.
Our Wish List
Peanut M & M’s---the only chocolate which does not melt in transit or in the heat of Niger
AAA batteries—we live with no electricity so have headlamps and flashlights which require batteries not readily available here
Hand wipes or hand sanitizer— dust, grease and disease-causing germs are rampant here
Zip Lock bags of all sizes—again, dust is prevalent, so everything we own gets dirty if not enclosed
Protein bars, granola or Luna bars—there is rare protein aside from beans in our diet. We have had meat only on very selected occasions or when eating at the Peace Corps site
Dried fruit or nuts (not candied fruit)—fresh fruit is almost non-existent in the rural bush villages
Toilet tissue or Kleenex—cheaper the better. Don’t even think of what happens when we can’t get it!
Scouring pads, brillo pads, etc— peanut oil in most rice and bean dishes leaves everything greasy .
Most of all we wish for our family and friends to have the best Christmas, holiday season, and New Year ever. We miss you, think of you and wish you health and happiness during this season of love and light. Love, Judy and Dave
If Santa reads this list, he/she should only send small packages due to the cost of mailing both in the US and in Africa. Also, packages are frequently opened and pilfered before they are delivered. Some packages do not ever arrive even though postal charges are high at the local post office in Niger.
There's No Christmas in Niger----just a Wish List
As December progresses and the holiday season approaches, we think of where we were last year at this time. Planning trips to visit family, shopping for gifts, attending parties and musical performances, decorating the house—all of the normal activities associated with Christmas and December.
This year in mid-December, we are in rural Niger nearing the end of our training period for the Peace Corps. If all goes well, our swearing in as official volunteers will be on December 30 with placement in our own village soon to follow. That is all very exciting and even though the training has been rough in many ways, we do not regret having the experience. We value the cultural exchange we have been able to participate in and look forward to actually starting meaningful projects in 2011.
There is, however, the longing for the holiday which is definitely not celebrated here. Our location and time have not allowed us to send Christmas cards or gifts, but we do think of what others might enjoy and then ----what might be on our wish list for Santa.
You might be surprised! The items we wish for are not what you’d expect, but they are small luxuries which would make our life in Niger a bit more comfortable.
Our Wish List
Peanut M & M’s---the only chocolate which does not melt in transit or in the heat of Niger
AAA batteries—we live with no electricity so have headlamps and flashlights which require batteries not readily available here
Hand wipes or hand sanitizer— dust, grease and disease-causing germs are rampant here
Zip Lock bags of all sizes—again, dust is prevalent, so everything we own gets dirty if not enclosed
Protein bars, granola or Luna bars—there is rare protein aside from beans in our diet. We have had meat only on very selected occasions or when eating at the Peace Corps site
Dried fruit or nuts (not candied fruit)—fresh fruit is almost non-existent in the rural bush villages
Toilet tissue or Kleenex—cheaper the better. Don’t even think of what happens when we can’t get it!
Scouring pads, brillo pads, etc— peanut oil in most rice and bean dishes leaves everything greasy .
Most of all we wish for our family and friends to have the best Christmas, holiday season, and New Year ever. We miss you, think of you and wish you health and happiness during this season of love and light. Love, Judy and Dave
If Santa reads this list, he/she should only send small packages due to the cost of mailing both in the US and in Africa. Also, packages are frequently opened and pilfered before they are delivered. Some packages do not ever arrive even though postal charges are high at the local post office in Niger.
There’s No Christmas in Niger----just a Wish List
As December progresses and the holiday season approaches, we think of where we were last year at this time. Planning trips to visit family, shopping for gifts, attending parties and musical performances, decorating the house—all of the normal activities associated with Christmas and December.
This year in mid-December, we are in rural Niger nearing the end of our training period for the Peace Corps. If all goes well, our swearing in as official volunteers will be on December 30 with placement in our own village soon to follow. That is all very exciting and even though the training has been rough in many ways, we do not regret having the experience. We value the cultural exchange we have been able to participate in and look forward to actually starting meaningful projects in 2011.
There is, however, the longing for the holiday which is definitely not celebrated here. Our location and time have not allowed us to send Christmas cards or gifts, but we do think of what others might enjoy and then ----what might be on our wish list for Santa.
You might be surprised! The items we wish for are not what you’d expect, but they are small luxuries which would make our life in Niger a bit more comfortable.
Our Wish List
Peanut M & M’s---the only chocolate which does not melt in transit or in the heat of Niger
AAA batteries—we live with no electricity so have headlamps and flashlights which require batteries not readily available here
Hand wipes or hand sanitizer— dust, grease and disease-causing germs are rampant here
Zip Lock bags of all sizes—again, dust is prevalent, so everything we own gets dirty if not enclosed
Protein bars, granola or Luna bars—there is rare protein aside from beans in our diet. We have had meat only on very selected occasions or when eating at the Peace Corps site
Dried fruit or nuts (not candied fruit)—fresh fruit is almost non-existent in the rural bush villages
Toilet tissue or Kleenex—cheaper the better. Don’t even think of what happens when we can’t get it!
Scouring pads, brillo pads, etc— peanut oil in most rice and bean dishes leaves everything greasy .
Most of all we wish for our family and friends to have the best Christmas, holiday season, and New Year ever. We miss you, think of you and wish you health and happiness during this season of love and light. Love, Judy and Dave
If Santa reads this list, he/she should only send small packages due to the cost of mailing both in the US and in Africa. Also, packages are frequently opened and pilfered before they are delivered. Some packages do not ever arrive even though postal charges are high at the local post office in Niger.
There’s No Christmas in Niger----just a Wish List
As December progresses and the holiday season approaches, we think of where we were last year at this time. Planning trips to visit family, shopping for gifts, attending parties and musical performances, decorating the house—all of the normal activities associated with Christmas and December.
This year in mid-December, we are in rural Niger nearing the end of our training period for the Peace Corps. If all goes well, our swearing in as official volunteers will be on December 30 with placement in our own village soon to follow. That is all very exciting and even though the training has been rough in many ways, we do not regret having the experience. We value the cultural exchange we have been able to participate in and look forward to actually starting meaningful projects in 2011.
There is, however, the longing for the holiday which is definitely not celebrated here. Our location and time have not allowed us to send Christmas cards or gifts, but we do think of what others might enjoy and then ----what might be on our wish list for Santa.
You might be surprised! The items we wish for are not what you’d expect, but they are small luxuries which would make our life in Niger a bit more comfortable.
Our Wish List
Peanut M & M’s---the only chocolate which does not melt in transit or in the heat of Niger
AAA batteries—we live with no electricity so have headlamps and flashlights which require batteries not readily available here
Hand wipes or hand sanitizer— dust, grease and disease-causing germs are rampant here
Zip Lock bags of all sizes—again, dust is prevalent, so everything we own gets dirty if not enclosed
Protein bars, granola or Luna bars—there is rare protein aside from beans in our diet. We have had meat only on very selected occasions or when eating at the Peace Corps site
Dried fruit or nuts (not candied fruit)—fresh fruit is almost non-existent in the rural bush villages
Toilet tissue or Kleenex—cheaper the better. Don’t even think of what happens when we can’t get it!
Scouring pads, brillo pads, etc— peanut oil in most rice and bean dishes leaves everything greasy .
Most of all we wish for our family and friends to have the best Christmas, holiday season, and New Year ever. We miss you, think of you and wish you health and happiness during this season of love and light. Love, Judy and Dave
If Santa reads this list, he/she should only send small packages due to the cost of mailing both in the US and in Africa. Also, packages are frequently opened and pilfered before they are delivered. Some packages do not ever arrive even though postal charges are high at the local post office in Niger.
This year in mid-December, we are in rural Niger nearing the end of our training period for the Peace Corps. If all goes well, our swearing in as official volunteers will be on December 30 with placement in our own village soon to follow. That is all very exciting and even though the training has been rough in many ways, we do not regret having the experience. We value the cultural exchange we have been able to participate in and look forward to actually starting meaningful projects in 2011.
There is, however, the longing for the holiday which is definitely not celebrated here. Our location and time have not allowed us to send Christmas cards or gifts, but we do think of what others might enjoy and then ----what might be on our wish list for Santa.
You might be surprised! The items we wish for are not what you’d expect, but they are small luxuries which would make our life in Niger a bit more comfortable.
Our Wish List
Peanut M & M’s---the only chocolate which does not melt in transit or in the heat of Niger
AAA batteries—we live with no electricity so have headlamps and flashlights which require batteries not readily available here
Hand wipes or hand sanitizer— dust, grease and disease-causing germs are rampant here
Zip Lock bags of all sizes—again, dust is prevalent, so everything we own gets dirty if not enclosed
Protein bars, granola or Luna bars—there is rare protein aside from beans in our diet. We have had meat only on very selected occasions or when eating at the Peace Corps site
Dried fruit or nuts (not candied fruit)—fresh fruit is almost non-existent in the rural bush villages
Toilet tissue or Kleenex—cheaper the better. Don’t even think of what happens when we can’t get it!
Scouring pads, brillo pads, etc— peanut oil in most rice and bean dishes leaves everything greasy .
Most of all we wish for our family and friends to have the best Christmas, holiday season, and New Year ever. We miss you, think of you and wish you health and happiness during this season of love and light. Love, Judy and Dave
If Santa reads this list, he/she should only send small packages due to the cost of mailing both in the US and in Africa. Also, packages are frequently opened and pilfered before they are delivered. Some packages do not ever arrive even though postal charges are high at the local post office in Niger.
There’s No Christmas in Niger----just a Wish List
As December progresses and the holiday season approaches, we think of where we were last year at this time. Planning trips to visit family, shopping for gifts, attending parties and musical performances, decorating the house—all of the normal activities associated with Christmas and December.
This year in mid-December, we are in rural Niger nearing the end of our training period for the Peace Corps. If all goes well, our swearing in as official volunteers will be on December 30 with placement in our own village soon to follow. That is all very exciting and even though the training has been rough in many ways, we do not regret having the experience. We value the cultural exchange we have been able to participate in and look forward to actually starting meaningful projects in 2011.
There is, however, the longing for the holiday which is definitely not celebrated here. Our location and time have not allowed us to send Christmas cards or gifts, but we do think of what others might enjoy and then ----what might be on our wish list for Santa.
You might be surprised! The items we wish for are not what you’d expect, but they are small luxuries which would make our life in Niger a bit more comfortable.
Our Wish List
Peanut M & M’s---the only chocolate which does not melt in transit or in the heat of Niger
AAA batteries—we live with no electricity so have headlamps and flashlights which require batteries not readily available here
Hand wipes or hand sanitizer— dust, grease and disease-causing germs are rampant here
Zip Lock bags of all sizes—again, dust is prevalent, so everything we own gets dirty if not enclosed
Protein bars, granola or Luna bars—there is rare protein aside from beans in our diet. We have had meat only on very selected occasions or when eating at the Peace Corps site
Dried fruit or nuts (not candied fruit)—fresh fruit is almost non-existent in the rural bush villages
Toilet tissue or Kleenex—cheaper the better. Don’t even think of what happens when we can’t get it!
Scouring pads, brillo pads, etc— peanut oil in most rice and bean dishes leaves everything greasy .
Most of all we wish for our family and friends to have the best Christmas, holiday season, and New Year ever. We miss you, think of you and wish you health and happiness during this season of love and light. Love, Judy and Dave
If Santa reads this list, he/she should only send small packages due to the cost of mailing both in the US and in Africa. Also, packages are frequently opened and pilfered before they are delivered. Some packages do not ever arrive even though postal charges are high at the local post office in Niger.
There’s No Christmas in Niger----just a Wish List
As December progresses and the holiday season approaches, we think of where we were last year at this time. Planning trips to visit family, shopping for gifts, attending parties and musical performances, decorating the house—all of the normal activities associated with Christmas and December.
This year in mid-December, we are in rural Niger nearing the end of our training period for the Peace Corps. If all goes well, our swearing in as official volunteers will be on December 30 with placement in our own village soon to follow. That is all very exciting and even though the training has been rough in many ways, we do not regret having the experience. We value the cultural exchange we have been able to participate in and look forward to actually starting meaningful projects in 2011.
There is, however, the longing for the holiday which is definitely not celebrated here. Our location and time have not allowed us to send Christmas cards or gifts, but we do think of what others might enjoy and then ----what might be on our wish list for Santa.
You might be surprised! The items we wish for are not what you’d expect, but they are small luxuries which would make our life in Niger a bit more comfortable.
Our Wish List
Peanut M & M’s---the only chocolate which does not melt in transit or in the heat of Niger
AAA batteries—we live with no electricity so have headlamps and flashlights which require batteries not readily available here
Hand wipes or hand sanitizer— dust, grease and disease-causing germs are rampant here
Zip Lock bags of all sizes—again, dust is prevalent, so everything we own gets dirty if not enclosed
Protein bars, granola or Luna bars—there is rare protein aside from beans in our diet. We have had meat only on very selected occasions or when eating at the Peace Corps site
Dried fruit or nuts (not candied fruit)—fresh fruit is almost non-existent in the rural bush villages
Toilet tissue or Kleenex—cheaper the better. Don’t even think of what happens when we can’t get it!
Scouring pads, brillo pads, etc— peanut oil in most rice and bean dishes leaves everything greasy .
Most of all we wish for our family and friends to have the best Christmas, holiday season, and New Year ever. We miss you, think of you and wish you health and happiness during this season of love and light. Love, Judy and Dave
If Santa reads this list, he/she should only send small packages due to the cost of mailing both in the US and in Africa. Also, packages are frequently opened and pilfered before they are delivered. Some packages do not ever arrive even though postal charges are high at the local post office in Niger.
Saturday, November 27, 2010
West Africa on a Friday Night
Nassirou and Sherifa are our names in Niger. We were given these names by our host family when we arrived in the village for our pre-service training. All Peace Corps volunteers have a Nigerien name which enhances the idea of immersing into a different culture. I actually like my name, Sherifa. Its meaning is unknown to me, however, it seems to be popular in my village. Nassirou means “lucky”. I hope that proves to be true.
Last Friday night after a day of language classes, visiting a new baby in a neighboring village, touring 2 local health huts, and planting a small vegetable garden, Nassirou and I just wanted to sit for a bit, relax or fulanzam(rest) and cool off before dinner. Nassirou’s lucky failed because 3 village children appeared immediately at our door saying “salum alakaim”, “salum alakaim”. We had to respond—“Amin Alakum salum”, I said, and in they came to our small space. One boy, Moumuni, reminds us of Jared, our grandson. The other 2 children tag along with him most nights. They long for attention from someone.
The children sit on the dirt floor, quiet, just watching us. Our language skills are still so lacking that we did the same—it did not seem to matter. The children just like to look at us. We don’t have anymore Peanut M&M’s to share, but they don’t seem to care.
Finally, not being able to stand the silence, I got our playing cards from inside our hut and began shuffling them for a game of Battle. Moumuni dealt them to Nassirou, Sherifa, and himself and did so quite aptly, I’d say. Even though this African bush child speaks his local language, Zarma, he is learning French and Arabic in school and knows his numbers in English. With limited ability to explain the game, we just started playing, laying our cards out face up with Moumuni doing the same. We’d then indicate the high card as the round’s winner. Moumuni and his friends who were, quickly caught on and began pointing to the winner of each hand. No verbal exchange was needed but plenty of laughter ensued as we sat with these children playing cards by flashlight and by starlight.
When Hamsu, one of our host family wives, brought our dinner, the children scattered and returned to their own fu (home). They were well trained. Hamsu had brought her sleeping baby with her. She said, “ay sinda bani” (meaning sick), pointing to the child and indicating I should touch him. I placed my hand on his small body—it was hot with fever and the child coughed as he began to stir on the Mother’s back where he rested. As Hamsu uncovered the bowl of rice and beans which was our dinner, I lost my appetite. I just couldn’t eat. Was it because I felt badly about not being able to help this sick baby or was I afraid of Nassirou and Sherifa getting sick? I asked Hamsu if she was planning to take the baby to the local health hut and she said, “suba” (tomorrow). I looked up words in our Zarma dictionary for sponge bath and tried to explain the comfort measure for the baby. It is difficult to speak with Hamsu since she knows no English, but I felt that she understood what I was trying to tell her. We walked Hamsu and her baby across the concession to her home.
After taking bucket baths by moonlight, Nassirou and Sherifa were in bed by 8:30 pm, protected by mosquito nets and overcome with exhaustion. It was too warm to immediately fall asleep so we lay quietly thinking about the busy day we’d had in West Africa and about all that was planned for the next day..
Nassirou’s name means lucky. We’ll find out if it’s good luck or bad luck as time goes by.
Judy
Post script: Nassirou experienced some bad luck soon after that Friday night. He caught an upper respiratory infection from one of the village children. Don’t worry though, he recovered quickly.
Last Friday night after a day of language classes, visiting a new baby in a neighboring village, touring 2 local health huts, and planting a small vegetable garden, Nassirou and I just wanted to sit for a bit, relax or fulanzam(rest) and cool off before dinner. Nassirou’s lucky failed because 3 village children appeared immediately at our door saying “salum alakaim”, “salum alakaim”. We had to respond—“Amin Alakum salum”, I said, and in they came to our small space. One boy, Moumuni, reminds us of Jared, our grandson. The other 2 children tag along with him most nights. They long for attention from someone.
The children sit on the dirt floor, quiet, just watching us. Our language skills are still so lacking that we did the same—it did not seem to matter. The children just like to look at us. We don’t have anymore Peanut M&M’s to share, but they don’t seem to care.
Finally, not being able to stand the silence, I got our playing cards from inside our hut and began shuffling them for a game of Battle. Moumuni dealt them to Nassirou, Sherifa, and himself and did so quite aptly, I’d say. Even though this African bush child speaks his local language, Zarma, he is learning French and Arabic in school and knows his numbers in English. With limited ability to explain the game, we just started playing, laying our cards out face up with Moumuni doing the same. We’d then indicate the high card as the round’s winner. Moumuni and his friends who were, quickly caught on and began pointing to the winner of each hand. No verbal exchange was needed but plenty of laughter ensued as we sat with these children playing cards by flashlight and by starlight.
When Hamsu, one of our host family wives, brought our dinner, the children scattered and returned to their own fu (home). They were well trained. Hamsu had brought her sleeping baby with her. She said, “ay sinda bani” (meaning sick), pointing to the child and indicating I should touch him. I placed my hand on his small body—it was hot with fever and the child coughed as he began to stir on the Mother’s back where he rested. As Hamsu uncovered the bowl of rice and beans which was our dinner, I lost my appetite. I just couldn’t eat. Was it because I felt badly about not being able to help this sick baby or was I afraid of Nassirou and Sherifa getting sick? I asked Hamsu if she was planning to take the baby to the local health hut and she said, “suba” (tomorrow). I looked up words in our Zarma dictionary for sponge bath and tried to explain the comfort measure for the baby. It is difficult to speak with Hamsu since she knows no English, but I felt that she understood what I was trying to tell her. We walked Hamsu and her baby across the concession to her home.
After taking bucket baths by moonlight, Nassirou and Sherifa were in bed by 8:30 pm, protected by mosquito nets and overcome with exhaustion. It was too warm to immediately fall asleep so we lay quietly thinking about the busy day we’d had in West Africa and about all that was planned for the next day..
Nassirou’s name means lucky. We’ll find out if it’s good luck or bad luck as time goes by.
Judy
Post script: Nassirou experienced some bad luck soon after that Friday night. He caught an upper respiratory infection from one of the village children. Don’t worry though, he recovered quickly.
Thanksgiving Day 2010
Thanksgiving 2010
The walls are cracked. Paint chips are missing everywhere. The bathroom light fixture hangs by 1 screw but the light works because there is electricity, something not available in the bush of Africa. The bed has hand cranks to raise and lower the occupant and is covered with clean but stained sheets. A basic cabinet stands against a wall with a rectangular wooden table beside it. The cabinet is empty. There is nothing on the table. There are no towels or soap. Drinking water in a sealed bottle awaits the thirsty taker.
Large windows are open, facing the Niger River and a breeze is felt wafting in. There are cracks in one window panel and a small hole is visible in the screen. Wonder if any mosquitoes which frequent this country have found the hole. Through the window one can see a beautiful garden filled with lush plants, trees and grass. It is an oasis from the dry, hot, air of the bush. Birds can be heard singing and butterflies flit from flower to flower as the African sun begins to set. Beyond the garden lies an expanse of agricultural fields where vegetables are being grown—cabbage plants can be seen with others in the background. It is a large expanse and one man will spend his day irrigating the plants with 2 hand-watering cans. His source of water is the Niger River which is in its cleanest state during this season but still not drinkable.
This hospital in Niger’s capital city was built by the French in the late 50’s. It is where Dave was brought by the Peace Corps medical officer due to his raging fever, dehydration and gastrointestinal infection. I was allowed to accompany Dave to the hospital although my problem was less severe and easily treated without need for hospitalization.
It was in this stark place that Dave and Judy spent the 2 days prior to and part of Thanksgiving Day, 2010 as Peace Corps volunteers. How did this happen?
Two evenings before, what had been a pleasant evening at a seemingly good restaurant in Niamey, Niger, turned into Dave’s illness and hospitalization because we ordered and ate a salad with our meal. There is no conclusive proof, but since one other person who shared the salad with us also was violently sick and had to go to this hospital, the restaurant’s likelihood of being part of the causative factor is fairl y certain. We miss salads and fruits so much here. When our training group was taken out to dinner and salad appeared on the menu, all knowledge of the risks of eating fresh vegetables escaped our minds and we ordered the forbidden. Firm, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and shredded carrots and cabbage filled a generous salad plate for Dave and me. We shared with our fellow volunteer, not knowing we would also share illness and Thanksgiving in a foreign country’s hospital with her too.
Unfortunately, the 3 of us became ill because we mistakenly assumed that local restaurants who offered salads on their menus also took care to clean the vegetables of the disease-causing organisms so commonly found here. Broad assumptions can prove to be erroneous but this one was definitely wrong. It is a lesson we’ll take to heart. We’ll also share a lifelong bond with Carolyn, the young Peace Corps volunteer with whom we shared our salad and the Thanksgiving hospital stay.
Now on Thanksgiving morning, along with most other Americans, we give thanks --- for family and friends, for each other, for the opportunity to experience life in so many diverse ways. Most especially on this Thanksgiving Day, 2010, we give thanks for excellent medical care first by the Peace Corps medical staff, then by the medical staff at the hospital in Niger’s capital. Though the structure is old and run down, the staff is young, educated, well trained, and highly competent. With their excellent diagnosis and treatment Dave was ready for discharge l within forty- eight hours. It was indeed a Thanksgiving Day to remember.
Irikoy ma saabu tonton (Zarma language). May God increase your thankfulness. Judy and Dave
The walls are cracked. Paint chips are missing everywhere. The bathroom light fixture hangs by 1 screw but the light works because there is electricity, something not available in the bush of Africa. The bed has hand cranks to raise and lower the occupant and is covered with clean but stained sheets. A basic cabinet stands against a wall with a rectangular wooden table beside it. The cabinet is empty. There is nothing on the table. There are no towels or soap. Drinking water in a sealed bottle awaits the thirsty taker.
Large windows are open, facing the Niger River and a breeze is felt wafting in. There are cracks in one window panel and a small hole is visible in the screen. Wonder if any mosquitoes which frequent this country have found the hole. Through the window one can see a beautiful garden filled with lush plants, trees and grass. It is an oasis from the dry, hot, air of the bush. Birds can be heard singing and butterflies flit from flower to flower as the African sun begins to set. Beyond the garden lies an expanse of agricultural fields where vegetables are being grown—cabbage plants can be seen with others in the background. It is a large expanse and one man will spend his day irrigating the plants with 2 hand-watering cans. His source of water is the Niger River which is in its cleanest state during this season but still not drinkable.
This hospital in Niger’s capital city was built by the French in the late 50’s. It is where Dave was brought by the Peace Corps medical officer due to his raging fever, dehydration and gastrointestinal infection. I was allowed to accompany Dave to the hospital although my problem was less severe and easily treated without need for hospitalization.
It was in this stark place that Dave and Judy spent the 2 days prior to and part of Thanksgiving Day, 2010 as Peace Corps volunteers. How did this happen?
Two evenings before, what had been a pleasant evening at a seemingly good restaurant in Niamey, Niger, turned into Dave’s illness and hospitalization because we ordered and ate a salad with our meal. There is no conclusive proof, but since one other person who shared the salad with us also was violently sick and had to go to this hospital, the restaurant’s likelihood of being part of the causative factor is fairl y certain. We miss salads and fruits so much here. When our training group was taken out to dinner and salad appeared on the menu, all knowledge of the risks of eating fresh vegetables escaped our minds and we ordered the forbidden. Firm, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and shredded carrots and cabbage filled a generous salad plate for Dave and me. We shared with our fellow volunteer, not knowing we would also share illness and Thanksgiving in a foreign country’s hospital with her too.
Unfortunately, the 3 of us became ill because we mistakenly assumed that local restaurants who offered salads on their menus also took care to clean the vegetables of the disease-causing organisms so commonly found here. Broad assumptions can prove to be erroneous but this one was definitely wrong. It is a lesson we’ll take to heart. We’ll also share a lifelong bond with Carolyn, the young Peace Corps volunteer with whom we shared our salad and the Thanksgiving hospital stay.
Now on Thanksgiving morning, along with most other Americans, we give thanks --- for family and friends, for each other, for the opportunity to experience life in so many diverse ways. Most especially on this Thanksgiving Day, 2010, we give thanks for excellent medical care first by the Peace Corps medical staff, then by the medical staff at the hospital in Niger’s capital. Though the structure is old and run down, the staff is young, educated, well trained, and highly competent. With their excellent diagnosis and treatment Dave was ready for discharge l within forty- eight hours. It was indeed a Thanksgiving Day to remember.
Irikoy ma saabu tonton (Zarma language). May God increase your thankfulness. Judy and Dave
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)